Introduction

When you mention that you will be visiting Kota Kinabalu, what would usually be recommended to a tourist is a visit to the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, affordable seafood, a visit to Tanjung Ara or even the weekend Tamu at Gaya Street. Besides these, another tourist attraction that will be proposed is a visit to the nearby Mari-Mari Cultural Village. For those who prefer mother nature, there are also a number of trails within a short drive that you can hit to catch sunset (or even sunrise).

In our return leg to Kota Kinabalu, we managed to join a guided tour at the Mari-Mari Cultural Village, and I even managed to squeeze in a couple of hikes, exploring the trails of Sepanggar, north of the city center.

A Little Durian & Drama

We checked in to another service apartment, this time right smack opposite Kota Kinabalu main market. The Shore apartment looks very new, with only a few units being occupied and the facilities floor still undergoing construction. Like the previous apartment, the studio apartment has been further subdivided and fits our family nicely (except for the single available toilet).

We’ve been craving durian for the last couple of days, and we decided to drop by what looked like a dedicated durian night market, located just a street away from where we stayed. We were initially hoping to grab a quick bite, and feast on duriang, but the Durian Night Market mainly had durian stalls (duh!), with just a few non-durian stalls selling kuih-muih, drinks & just noodle stalls that didn’t look very appetizing to us. We stopped by one of the durian stalls to sample a local Sabah variety, but was left disappointed. Maybe it was just the start of durian season (or because this spot is a tourist trap), but the price was also pretty high, with durian kampung going for RM20/kg. For reference, RM20 will buy us Ang Hae or Cheh Puey (one of our two favourite varieties) back in Penang.

The local Sabah variety was just not comparable to those we get back home in Penang

We forgot to try buah Tarap, which supposedly taste like a jucier version of cempedak

Disappointed, we decided to go elsewhere for a proper meal. Thien Thien Restaurant, which seems to be one of the old-school favourite among locals was just across Jalan Tun Razak, a mere 10mins walk away. At the pedestrian crossing, we saw a large piece of equipment lying in the middle of the main road which fell off the trailer transporting it. This accident caused a major traffice jam, and wasn’t even cleared an hour later when we return.

Someone made a major boo-boo. This monstrosity fell off the trailer, causing a massive jam in the area

One of their supposedly popular dishes the seafood laksa was honestly just mediocre.

Tummy filled, we headed back to our apartment to rest.

Sunrise Hike @ Bukit Bonduk

Since I was only returning the car later in the morning, I decided to make good use of it, by driving to Seppangar for a sunrise hike up Bukit Bonduk (aka Bukit Gundul). I was quite confident that there would be others that would be sharing the similar idea , and I was right! There was already a car at the trailhead when I arrived.

Starting my hike at 4:57AM, more than enough time to reach the peak by dawn

The near full moon was like a torchlight up in the skies, and there was almost no need to turn on the headlamp I brought along. The trail is clear, and not too difficult. The peak is ~250m high, and total distance to the peak is around 1.5km. The peak offers a near 360 view of neighborhood; to the west lies Sepanggar Bay, while to the east Mt Kinabalu can be seen on a clear day.

Moon was still pretty full (actual full moon was just last night).

Eyes from many of these silent statue-like arachnid would reflect of my headlamp as it swept the ground.

Dead tree branches reaching out to the skies, casting an eerie silhouette against the natural pale moonlight. The orange light cast from nearby buildings made the skeleton of tree on the left like it was on fire

Signs with quotes like this dots the 1.5km trail

The treeline soon gave way to a large expense of green grass (or lalang to be exact) as I neared the peak.

Dawn breaking over the factories located at Kota Kinabalu Industrial Zone, with the peak of Mt Kinabalu covered in thick clouds

I continued to the 2nd peak, a few hundred meters away. From there, you can view the Sepanggar Jetty and a shipyard, sheltered inside the cove . The strong wind on the exposed peak made it hard to keep my hair down

Headed back to the first peak for a couple more photos before getting down to the exit

The sun could finally be seen peeping through the clouds. Bukit Bonduk aka Bukit Gundul is also known as Bukit Botak.

Thick green lalang covering Bukit Botak swaying and swooshing in the wind

This photo was taken on the way down, at the “tougher” section of the trail. The laterite ground of the initial trail can be a little challenging, especially because of the loose rocks and minimal foothold. There are ropes on those section for those who needs help. It gets easier as soon as the trail crosses the treeline.

Peak Bagging Bukit Janggut

It was still early when I got back down from Bukit Bonduk, and decided to do a quick trail nearby. Bukit Janggut trailhead is under 5mins drive away and the trail itself is just a 1km or so, with the peak standing ~150m high. I was pretty confident that I would be able to sprint up and down, and back home by 8am as promised.

Trailhead of Bukit Janggut. There’s a small garden at the foot of the hill that’s been lovingly tended to.

About 300m or so from the top, the trail will split to 2 paths, one shorter but steeper route (trail pacak) and the other longer but not as steep (bird’s nest). I decided to go up trail peak, and down bird’s nest.

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Experiencing Local Culture in Kota Kinabalu

Introduction

Table of Contents

A Little Durian & Drama

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185338_8558-1024x768.jpg — Our unit at The Shore

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185339_9437-1024x768.jpg — The local Sabah variety was just not comparable to those we get back home in Penang

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185339_9111-1024x768.jpg — We forgot to try buah Tarap, which supposedly taste like a jucier version of cempedak

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185339_9866-768x1024.jpg — Faded paint on the pedestrian crossing

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185340_0201-1024x768.jpg — Someone made a major boo-boo. This monstrosity fell off the trailer, causing a massive jam in the area

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185338_8831-1024x768.jpg — One of their supposedly popular dishes the seafood laksa was honestly just mediocre.

Tummy filled, we headed back to our apartment to rest.

Sunrise Hike @ Bukit Bonduk

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095426_6218-768x1024.jpg — Starting my hike at 4:57AM, more than enough time to reach the peak by dawn

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095427_7314-1024x768.jpg — Moon was still pretty full (actual full moon was just last night).

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095427_7937-768x1024.jpg — Eyes from many of these silent statue-like arachnid would reflect of my headlamp as it swept the ground.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095425_5685-1024x768.jpg — Dead tree branches reaching out to the skies, casting an eerie silhouette against the natural pale moonlight. The orange light cast from nearby buildings made the skeleton of tree on the left like it was on fire

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095428_8384-1024x768.jpg — Signs with quotes like this dots the 1.5km trail

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095433_3065-1024x768.jpg — The treeline soon gave way to a large expense of green grass (or lalang to be exact) as I neared the peak.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095428_8790-1024x768.jpg — Dawn breaking over the factories located at Kota Kinabalu Industrial Zone, with the peak of Mt Kinabalu covered in thick clouds

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095433_3915-768x1024.jpg — I continued to the 2nd peak, a few hundred meters away. From there, you can view the Sepanggar Jetty and a shipyard, sheltered inside the cove . The strong wind on the exposed peak made it hard to keep my hair down

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095433_3517-1024x768.jpg — Headed back to the first peak for a couple more photos before getting down to the exit

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095432_2473-768x1024.jpg — The sun could finally be seen peeping through the clouds. Bukit Bonduk aka Bukit Gundul is also known as Bukit Botak.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095429_9158-1024x768.jpg — Thick green lalang covering Bukit Botak swaying and swooshing in the wind

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095431_1069-768x1024.jpg — This photo was taken on the way down, at the “tougher” section of the trail. The laterite ground of the initial trail can be a little challenging, especially because of the loose rocks and minimal foothold. There are ropes on those section for those who needs help. It gets easier as soon as the trail crosses the treeline.

Peak Bagging Bukit Janggut

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095430_0430-768x1024.jpg — Trailhead of Bukit Janggut. There’s a small garden at the foot of the hill that’s been lovingly tended to.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_185340_0524-768x1024.jpg — Taking the challenge to sprint up to the peak via trail pacak (ie steep).

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095431_1680-768x1024.jpg — Peak of Bukit Janggut. A sign at the foot of the hill recorded the fastest time to the peak at less than 5 minutes, but I took many many times longer.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095429_9817-768x1024.jpg — The “I Love Bukit Janggut” Rock is located a short distance beyond the peak. It offers a scenic viewpoint of Mt Kinabalu, which unfortunately for me was still covered in thick clouds when I got there.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095432_2061-768x1024.jpg — Clouds covering Mt Kinabalu was finally blewn away, revealing the crown of Mt Kinabalu

Breakfast @ Keng Wan Hin

I got back into the car, and headed back to join everyone else for breakfast. There’s a very popular pastry shop, Keng Wan Hin, that was closed last week when we were in Kota Kinabalu. We decided to head there for another try, and this time it was open! We thought that 8.30am would not be late for breakfast, but boy, were we wrong. By the time we got there, most of their pastries were already sold out! I guess Sabahan start their day much earlier compared to their Peninsula counterparts. We ordered 1 each of whatever was left, and yes, they were so good that we queued up for 2nd helping.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095425_5307-768x1024.jpg — The near empty pastry shelves of Keng Wan Hin

I requested the car rental company (MK Team & Tour) to meet us here to collect the car. Thank you MK Team & Tour for the car. At the point of return, the odometer showed that we covered nearly 900km in the past 7 days.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Resize_20230625_095434_4472-1024x1024.jpg — The odometer when I returned vs when I collected the car showed a distance of 898km covered in the last 7 days.

Mari-Mari Cultural Village [Under Construction]

This section is currently being worked on by Mommy. Will post a separate link once ready

Seafood Dinner @ Todak Waterfront Hawker Center

It started pouring again when we got back to The Shore. Initial plans to chill at the apartment pool had to be abandoned, and we had a “movie night” instead, watching 12 Mighty Orphans.

We waited for the rain to let up, and walked across to the Todak Waterfront Hawker Center to sample the fresh seafood on offer.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 20230605_180902-1024x768.jpg — Sunset at Todak Waterfront

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is GridArt_20230626_190423990-1024x1024.jpg — Fresh (& sometime colorful seafood) options available at the hawker center. Couldnt resist selecting the colorful parrot fish for dinner.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 20230605_190206-1024x768.jpg — It started pouring heavily as we were enjoying our dinner

As it was still early, we walked into Servay Hypermarket inside KK Plaza to browse and ended up with a few boxes of Sabah Tea & local coffee to bring back home.

Shopping for Avocados & Tuaran Noodles One Last Time

Mummy wanted avocados to bring back home, and since I was up early, I went over to the Pasar Besar Kota Kinabalu to look for some. I guess I went overboard and bought nearly 5kg worth of avocados.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 20230606_055054-1024x768.jpg — Dark clouds promising another wet gloomy day ahead. Praise God that He held back the rain until our trip was done!

There’s another local favourite corner eatery within walking distance of The Shore, and we headed to Seng Hing Coffee Shop for our final breakfast here in Kota Kinabalu before our flight back home to Penang. This time, we were happy we dropped by. The Tuaran noodles was delicious (could taste the wok hey), laksa also got two thumbs up from both Che-che and Mummy. Their freshly fried prawn fritters was also really good but unfortunately we couldn’t wait for their fried fish slides, another of their recommended dish as it was time to head to the airport.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is GridArt_20230626_190517449-1024x1024.jpg — Prawn Fritters (with large prawns), Laksa Sarawak & Tuaran Noodles

We hustled back to our unit, grabbed our bags and flagged down a car to bring us the airport. It was time to head home! Bye bye Sabah, till we meet again.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is 20230606_084327-1024x768.jpg — At the airport, bye-bye Sabah.

TLDR

Places of Interest

Pasar Besar Kota Kinabalu: Main wet market in Kota Kinabalu. Foodcourt located above, and on the ground floor, the stalls are segregated to those selling fresh produce (vegetable), meat, fish, fruits, etc. Look out for the floor map dotting the entrance to navigate.
Servay Supermarket @ KK Plaza: Your typical supermarket (ie Sunshine in Penang, AEON Big) selling tourist snacks, household items, clothes, etc.
Todak Waterfront Hawker Center: Located near the Marlin Statue, its another center with multiple ikan bakar stalls. Pick your choice of seafood from any of the stalls, select how you would like it cooked (spicy, steamed, fried, grilled, etc), grab a seat and enjoy.
Durian Night Market: Located beneath the Jalan Segama pedestrian bridge, the stalls here mainly sells durian, with a smattering of stalls selling kuih-muih, drinks and street food. Durian price ranges depending on the type you purchase. There are tables set up by each stall for you to enjoy the durian purchased.
Seng Hin Coffee Shop: a corner coffee shop located 1 parallel road away from the busy Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. Specialty includes Tuaran Noodle and Laksa. Opens from 7am till late afternoon.
Keng Wan Hin: Popular pastry shop on Jalan Gaya, close to Fook Yuen Cafe. Serves delicious pastries and steamed pau. Come early, as their popular selection sells out fast.
Thien Thien Restaurant: Halal Chinese Restaurant that’s seemingly been operating for many many years. Their “chiu pai” laksa was just so-so to me. Wasn’t blown away by any of the selection we picked.
Mari-Mari Cultural Village: There are 2 guided sessions per day, one at 10am, the other at 2pm. Each last for around 3 hours, which includes lunch (morning session) or tea (afternoon session) at the end of your guided tour. Besides being sold online, tickets are also on sale at the on-site counter.
- Cost: RM100/adult, RM90/child
- Transport: Do ensure you arrange for transport to AND from the cultural village. It is quite a distance out, and you will face difficulty getting a ride back, if you did not arrange one earlier.

Lodging

The Shore Service Apartment: A new service apartment located opposite Kota Kinabalu Main Market (Pasar Besar Kota Kinabalu). Parking cost RM5/entry, but you should be able to find parking along the streets nearby. We booked our 2 bedroom unit via Agoda. Note that there is only 1 toilet, and originally the unit looks more like a 1 bedroom unit (which was converted to 2).

Misc Tips

For the Mari-Mari Cultural Village tour, do book the morning session if you dont have a car. You should be able to catch a Grab ride back, as there will be tourist that would be “grabbing” over for the afternoon session. You will just need to wait till around 1.30pm when guest starts arriving.
If you are visiting the ikan bakar stalls lining either the Todak Hawker Center, Waterfront Night Market, etc for seafood, note that you should be able to get your fish to be cooked in two different styles (one style for each half).
Price of seafood seems higher than when I recalled the last time I was over. I would no longer label KK seafood as affordable, it was actually similar to what we could get back in Penang. That said, there are a lot more choices available (parrot fish, lobster, large oysters, etc) Do remember to negotiate.
Durian was nowhere near the quality that we could get back in Penang, and it was pricier too! RM20-40/kg for local Sabah durian & RM55-75/kg for Musang King. I would recommend to skip it.

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Taking the challenge to sprint up to the peak via trail pacak (ie steep).

Peak of Bukit Janggut. A sign at the foot of the hill recorded the fastest time to the peak at less than 5 minutes, but I took many many times longer.

The “I Love Bukit Janggut” Rock is located a short distance beyond the peak. It offers a scenic viewpoint of Mt Kinabalu, which unfortunately for me was still covered in thick clouds when I got there.

Clouds covering Mt Kinabalu was finally blewn away, revealing the crown of Mt Kinabalu

Breakfast @ Keng Wan Hin

The near empty pastry shelves of Keng Wan Hin

The odometer when I returned vs when I collected the car showed a distance of 898km covered in the last 7 days.

Mari-Mari Cultural Village

Since we no longer have a car, we resorted to calling a Grab to bring us to Mari-Mari Cultural Village, located about 40mins car ride away. We got our tickets at the counter, and joined the crowd. The crowd would be split to groups and a guide would be allocated to each group. Ours was Aiman, who tells us he is from the Murut tribe.

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It started pouring (it was a short shower) just as we finished lunch. Thank God for holding back the rain, and also for tour group participant who offered to bring us in their chartered van to the entrance. We struggled to book a ride back to the city center, eventually getting hold of one of the Grab car coming in with passengers participating in the afternoon session.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time here, and our initial hesitation to join a guided tour through what we thought would be a tourist trap was laid to rest. They certainly deserved their 4-years in a row Best Man Made Tourism Award by the Sabah Tourism.