This post is part 3 covering our epic Mae Hong Son loop. It covers our adventures and experiences as we made our way from Mae Hong Son town to Ban Rak Thai and Ban Jabo. Feel free to jump to the “TLDR” section to get a quick run down of what to expect and some tips. Read through the full post to follow our day by day, stop by stop experience.
The next segment of our journey will bring us even closer to the Thailand – Myanmar border. Ban Rak Thai is a remote lakeside Yunnanese village famed for its tea plantation. This small highland village located in the lush backcountry is just 1km or so from the border (crossing seems porous as its marked only by simple barb wires). Historically Ban Rak Thai is a Thai-Chinese village founded by former Kuo Min Tang soldiers (The Nationalists) who migrated from Yunnan Province, China, after the Communist takeover of China. On the way, we also stopped by Pang Oung, a small lakeside village surrounded by alpine trees. It is actually a large reservoir surrounded by green pine forest, and an excellent site for camping. Was initially trying to camp here but gave up after unable to get hold of national park.
Since the hotel didn’t provide breakfast, it was off to the market again. Grabbed a cup of milk coffee before walking around to see what’s available.
Went back with a mix of kuih, desserts and the ubiquitous pathongko (Chinese crullers) and soy milk. Pathongko was really small (1 inch long), while you get options to add into your soy milk, including beans, barley, tau fu fa.
Onwards to Pang Oung
The plan was to get to Pang Oung early, but by the time we arrive, the day was already bright and sunny. Even then, it was still too cold and we needed to quickly dig out our jackets and change into long pants. Pang Oung is a small alpine lake and hill tribe village hidden away in the mountains very close to Myanmar border.
Some website described it as the “New Zealand of Thailand”. The many pine trees around the lake certainly gave off the vibes. We engaged 2 of the bamboo boats (1 boat carries a maximum of 2 passengers) available at the lake, which cost 150baht each for 30mins.
Further in, is the national park which cost us an additional 200baht to enter. There were chalets and a nice campsite under the pine trees available for rent. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get hold of the park beforehand and didn’t want to risk coming over without securing accommodations.
Pang Tong Palace
It was off to Pang Tong Palace nearby after the short picnic in Pang Oung. It’s one of the many royal projects over a large swathe of land to improve animal breeding (fish, sheep, horse, swans) and agricultural (flowers, fruits). We were caught by surprise by the open zoo in grounds too. You basically self drive to different enclosures and visit the animals there.
A large male hornbill wasn’t happy to see. He was likely protecting his mate in the trunk.On the other hand our presence certainly didn’t bother the amorous male out to impress the female.
Ban Rak Thai
We were getting hungry and hence continued our way to our destination, Ban Rak Thai for authentic Yunnanese cuisine. Ban Rak Thai marks the furthest west we were planning to drive and, it was time to make our return loop back to Chiang mai.
The first eatery we came across as you entered the village was a noodle/tea shop. Glad we stopped as they served delicious noodles (Annabel was craving for porridge) served with refreshing Osmanthus infused tea.Ban Rak Thai village centers around the Khuean Nai Mok Reservoir. The most popular stretch is the road in front of Lee Wine Rak Thai and Chasa Rak Thai resorts.
We booked ourselves a bungalow facing the lake at Chasa Rak Thai as the more picturesque Lee Wine was fully booked! Girls were holed up in front of their screens, while we sipped tea outside the verandah, enjoying the view and fragrance of the Osmanthus flowers whenever the wind blew.
We had to pay 20B/adult, 10B/kid to enter Lee Wine. Do yourself a favor and pay the fee. You will enjoy as you get lost walking the beautiful resort grounds.
We leisurely made our way across the lake to “the other side” for dinner. The lights at our resort (on the slopes of the hill) and the restaurants below lit the horizon, with the rising moon. I remember that the Moon, Jupiter & Venus lining up in a straight line.
It’s another Yunnanese restaurant (the ones lining the lake were more touristy and/or served steamboat which we were not interested in). The way the fried stringy goat meat and pork tea leaves was interesting.
Temperature turned chilly with the setting sun. Coaxed everyone for a quick photo as we rushed back across the lake to our rooms. We whiled the night away playing a few round of trash panda.
Mornings came gently to the sleepy village. That said, the first tourist were out early on the boats.
As the sun rose slowly, you could see mist slowly forming on the surface of the lake. Nowhere near the thick mist we saw in photos, nevertheless it was still a beautiful sunrise.
After breakfast, we went exploring for the Myanmar border checkpoint. The village actually ends at the border, and a dirt road brought us right to a simple barb wired guard post. Maps showed we were already in Myanmar though.
We crossed back and drove past the lake as we bid adieu to this beautiful hill village. We stopped by Ban Luk Khao Lam view point for a short break. At the stalls, peddlers were selling many type of prepacked rice and different type of bbq tubers.
Nam Lod
Another 30mins drive and we arrived at Nam Lod Cave. This is a very popular cave because of it’s vicinity to Pai and also because of what it has to offer.
The stalagmites and stalactites were really impressive and the cave was still very much alive. Most of the time spent exploring the first 2 pitch black caverns on foot. The only source of light were the kerosene lamps carried by the guides.
To get to the last cavern at the far end of the cave network, we were required to board a rickety bamboo raft. The 15mins or so journey was mostly in pitch black darkness with large carp like fishes swimming in the steam and the sounds of the bats overhead.
Right beside the exit, there’s a staircase that leads up all the way to Pi Man chamber, an archeological site where centuries old teak coffins can be found. Like the other caves in the Pang Mapha region, Nam Lod was said to be to shelter stone age inhabitants.
Highlight of our adventure at Nam Lod
Tham Phi Maen
The adventure at Nam Lod left us impressed but hungry and we headed to nearby Sop Pong village for a simple meal. With tummy filled, we headed to Tham Phi Maen, another cave boasting alcoves filled with impressive teak coffins (longest measuring around 7 meter in length). Tham Phi Maen according to the local Shan lore, is the resting places of slender spirits (Phi = spirits; Maen = slender), who haunt the forest. The length of the coffin certainly supported this myth.
The trailhead to Tham Phi Maen is just by the road, but surprisingly receives very few visitors. We were the only ones there. The short steep climb to the cave & the forest fire at the side of the trail certainly didn’t help. It’s a beautiful small cave network, with narrow pathways, some section requiring some acrobatics to pass through.
You will be rewarded with alcoves filled with impressive teak wood coffins (7 metres long, 1.5 metres wide). In one such opening, a coffin supported by wooden scaffolding perched precariously over the cliff. Resting below it are fragment of a coffin that looked like it fell and cracked open.
Ban Jabo
We left the cave greatly impressed and headed Ban Jabo, where we will be spending the night. Ban Jabo is picturesque mountain village, home to the Lahu hilltribe and is located also in the northern backcountry close to the border. Ban Jabo is traditionally known for its spectacular views, it is more recently garnering attention for the opportunity to dangle your legs over the edge as you slurp down a bowl of boat noodles. We stayed at a traditional home on stilts , built of wood and bamboo. This homestay was one of the toughest to arrange as most didn’t have contacts online that I could reach out to.
View of the town laid out to the left and right of the road cutting through. Firewood was the main source of fuel in the kitchen, while Annabel held up a shape found on most doorways Sound of squealing pigs.Rattana homestay comes with your basic amenities, and 3 of us agreed that we had the best sleep of our journey here! Mommy on the other hand, did not get a good rest as she was awoken by the heavy smoke (from the forest fire) during the night.
The owner cooked us a delicious spread of simple dinner consisting of traditional dishes, and we got to enjoy on the balcony overlooking the valley. We laid back and enjoyed the stars for a while, before heading in to catch up on some reading.
The girls decided to sleep in, but I on the other hand woke up early to hike a nearby cliff to catch sunrise. Unfortunately, the forest fires must have dried out all the humidity on the ground, hence there were no thick mist blanketing the valley as I was hoping for. I still enjoyed the short hike up Phu Pha Mok view point & the slow reveal of the valleys as the sun rose. We got to enjoy delicious bowls of boat noodles and hot drinks to warm our bodies. The views of the morning sun over the valley was certainly impressive.
We found out that the Lahu were celebrating their new year on that day. That helped explain why some of the folks were dressed more extravagantly. With that, it was again time to say our goodbyes and depart for Pai, our last town before heading back into Chiang Mai
TLDR
WIP
Attractions @ Pang Oung
Enjoy a leisurely raft ride at Pang Oung lake – head out early, the public space is never closed, and boat ride starts at 7am. If you are lucky, you will be able to ride through mist that forms on top of lake waters.
Picnic under the pine trees – the national park charges foreigners 200B/adult & 100B/child for entrance.
Lodging @ Pang Oung
Camping under the pine trees – the Pang Oung national park has a beautiful sprawling ground with campsite at the edge of the lake under alpine trees. There are also rooms further away from water edge for rent. You will need to contact National Park (I was unsuccessful, and abandoned the initial idea of camping here) to secure either the camping site or rooms.
Guesthouse outside of national park – right between the village and the national park entrance, there’s a common area by the lake (where you will catch the raft ride). The only way to book a room is to call the person in charge (Contact number to be updated)
Homestays in the village – there’s a village that you will pass right before you get to the lake. There are many homestay options available and some are even listed on Agoda. The easiest option in my opinion if you want to spend the night here.
Food
Tips
Pang Tong Palace – about 15 minutes from Pang Oung, it’s a mini open zoo that you can self-drive in. An excellent place to view birds breeding, feed sheeps, and open field with horses running around. Entrance is free.
